Lissit

Clearly one of the year’s best surprises! In this pocket-sized venue with its rough-stone walls – evenings only – the charcuterie-specialist chef sends out pâté with gusto – in pastry or stuffed with pork/foie gras/gizzards. Praise be to Claire Grumellon (Le Vaillant/Bichettes) for her cheeky little numbers – Roman-style tripe, pigeon with lentils, stuffed cabbage with its memorable jus… Mopping up the plate (from €8 to 26) with sourdough bread from the Fermentation Générale bakery is a must. For the wines, sommelier and owner Alexis Lissitzky – who did a stint at Soces – uncorks 100% natural/organic pours, not just French-born. A special mention too for the 15 or so house-made vermouths.