Automne

The low-profile but extremely talented Japanese chef Nobuyuki Akishige (La Vague d’Or in Saint-Tropez, with Arnaud Donckele, K2 in Courchevel and La Pyramide in Vienne, no less!) serves sensitively curated, appetising and subtle signature cuisine. Look beyond the setting of this long bistro with its thirty or so covers - the plate is where it’s all happening with a remarkable focus on sauces. In the cellar and front-of-house, Saeko (the chef’s wife) and a young sommelier offer delicious pours with a distinctive Alsace skew. Five-course discovery menu for €110 and 7 courses for €145, and an unbeatable €75 menu from Wednesdays to Friday lunch.