Argile

The former boss at Polissons, Romain Lamon opened this minimalist eatery with just 30 covers between Gare Saint-Lazare and Place de Clichy at the end of 2024. He treats his loyal patrons to elaborate starters: ox cheek ravioles, smoked eel and melt-in-the-mouth bone marrow or celery pie with Wellington-style vegetable jus, mopped up with incredible home-made bread. For mains, it’s more traditional but just as wholesome: pork chops, corn-fed chicken with poulette sauce or Grenoble-style skate with gnocchi. Mostly French natural wines (Descombes, Clusel-Roch, Chidaine, Bonnigal-Bodet…) and 10 wines by the glass. Set menu €22-26 (lunchtime) and à la carte €46-55 (evenings).